Critical focus / Selective focus

 

Critical focusing means that you are focusing ONLY on a small part of the image.  You are being SELECTIVE about what you choose to focus on.

 

Using a wide aperture in your lens, you can make ONLY that object in focus.  Using a NARROW (small) aperture, you can make more in focus both in front of what you are focusing on and beyond.

 

This shot was taken with a fixed (50mm) focal length lens i.e. not a zoom lens. I could have focused on the curly log in the mid-ground or the cliff in the background but the curve of the seaweed pods in the foreground was more interesting. I didn't select a wide aperture such as f2.8 or 3.5 because the image would only have a couple of inches of weedy bits in focus (not enough).  Instead, I chose f7 (smaller aperture than f2.8 or f3.5) to give me MORE depth.

 

 

 

 

This is an alternative to the first shot.  This one DOES focus on the log.  It has the same settings (1/128s, f7) but with a different subject in focus.

Yes - it's a fine difference but you can start to be creative when you understand how to use your lens and how to use critical focusing / selective focusing.

 

Proof-reading services

Fred has been a proof-reader for nearly twenty years.

Having had a good education and as a result of keeping his interest in the English language alive with practice, Fred can read texts, websites, articles for the following:

  • spelling
  • punctuation
  • grammar
  • readability
  • meaning
  • fluency
  • consistency

Fred will guarantee that if there are no errors in your text when you provide it, the proof-reading will be done for no fee!

Commission an image

Commercial

Local Photo Guide can capture specific images for your wall at home or your publications at work.

Localphotoguide can do the following to assist you and your business to meet copyright rules:

take photos of specific activities (training sessions, machinery in action, sporting sessions, outdoor activities) at given locations (indoor or outdoors)

Domestic

On the other hand, You may wish to have some tree ferns, sand grains, wildlife, surfers, coastal dunes or birds as a canvas poster, wall paper or mounted image IN YOUR HOME.  With some notice (and the right season and a bit of luck) localphotoguide can go out and find the image you want. On top of that, localphotoguide can adjust the colours in the image to suit your colour scheme at home.

Finally, localphotoguide can organise large-scale printing for you.

Voice-over

Voice-over work

Fred has been involved with the Torquay Theatre Troupe on the Surf Coast for 13 years and even acted as an extra in a movie in Beijing, so his experience with the creative world is not limited to photography.

Fred was approached to do the voiceover part of the foreman (Scottish accent) in the Gordon Institute of TAFE’s training video “Lean gone Lego“.

Fred has also recorded two short stories for librivox.org (The Invisible Eye and The Waters of Death) and has done radio advertisements on community and local Geelong radio.

His accent is British English with a hint of Scottish and some Australian, but he can do a range of accents, speeds, tones and timbres. Fred will be able to satisfy your voice-over needs whether it be for radio, TV, in-house video or instruction.

Action blur

Catching the action

Slow shutter speed captures movement

A slow shutter speed (e.g. between 1/50 and 1/8 of a second (depending on the light and the speed of the subject) allows you to capture movement.  In this case, I PANNED with the subject.  This means that I followed the subject as it moved.  This technique can require a lot of practice to get repeatable results but you CAN just strike it lucky!

Camera blur
  • If you want to capture a sharp image, the combination of the focal length of your lens and the shutter speed is good to think about.  Look at the front of your camera’s lens and read the little white words on the lens.  It will usually tell you the focal length of the lens in millimetres (e.g. 12mm, 28mm, 35mm) and the maximum aperture of your lens in f (e.g. f2, f2.4, f3.5).  If you use a zoom lens, it will show you the focal range of the lens (e.g. 10-20mm, 18-35mm, 70-200mm)
  • A good “Rule of thumb” if you want sharp image is that your shutter speed should not be any slower than your focal length – for example if you are using a focal length of 20mm, you should use a shutter speed no slower than 1/20 of a second.  For a lens of 200mm, your shutter speed should be no slower than 1/200 of a second.